I had a little flair of creativity a few weeks ago and decided to try my hand at sewing a dress for my daughter from a pattern of my own creation. It is the cutest little dress, but unfortunately my daughter refuses to wear it because it takes a bit of muscle to get it over her head. I really didn’t want to throw it out, so I’ve spent the last few days researching how to do a placket. So now I’m sharing this little tidbit with you! You don’t just have to put plackets on shirt/dress neck openings. They are commonly found on dress shirt sleeves, or even on the cuff of some pants. I’ve seen them in the self fabric or in a contrasting colour and sometimes even a pretty print if you want to get fancy. You may want to practice with a sample piece first before trying it out on a real garment.
How to sew a contrasting placket
1. Draw a line the length of your opening at the centre front. Draw 1/4″ seam allowance on either side of this line. You’re going to snip into the corners of the box you just drew to make a little triangle at the bottom of the opening. Cut the middle line down to the tip of the triangle, then clip into the corners to complete the triangle
2. Press one side of the contrast strip 1/4″ from the edge
3. Open up the fabric you just cut. Align, right sides together, the contrast strip and the self fabric along one edge of the opening. Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance all the way through to the other opening, adjusting at the triangle by sinking the needle and pivoting the fabric as needed.
4. Fold the contrast strip on itself, enclosing the seam allowance to the inside of the placket. Top-stitch 1/8″ from the pressed edge.
5. Fold the self-fabric so that it makes a 90 degree angle at the opening.
6. Hold your finger down on the corner of the fold created and then close the opening by overlapping the edges. This should create a neat little triangle shape at the front. Pin the edges near the middle-top to hold it together temporarily while you take a hammer and bang the crap out of the triangle bit at the bottom of the opening. Trust me, sewing is so much easier after this step!
7. Stitch around the triangle with some reinforcing stitches (can be a square just above, or a square with an X in it) through both placket layers to hold them together at the bottom
8. Give yourself a big pat on the back – I think that placket looks fantastic!